Erittäin hyvä Val d’Isere

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Olen ollut kahtena talvena Youtravelin oppaana Val d’Iseressä. Paikka on erinomainen hiihtoalue, mutta sen kiehtovuutta vähentää melko korkeaksi noussut hintataso.

En ihmettele paikan suosiota, kun googlettaa maailman parhaita hiihtokeskuksia, Val d’Isere löytyy lähes jokaiselta listalta. Alppien sydämessä sijaitsevan keskuksen valtteja ovat lumivarmuus sekä erittäin laajat ja monipuoliset rinteet – erityisesti niiden vierustat.

Kyläkorkeuden ollessa 1850 metriä viime talvien lumipula ei ole juurikaan piinannut Val d’Iseretä. Rinteiden lumitilanne on varmistettu myös mittavalla lumitykistöllä.

Val d’Iseren naapuri Tignes kuuluu samaan hiihtoalueeseen, mutta jää usein mainitsematta. Syynä lienee Val d’Iseren hienostuneempi keskusta, kun taas Tignes on rouheampi ja hajanaisempi useine kylineen. Takavuosina Tignes oli selvästi edullisempi kuin Val d’Isere, mutta nykyään ero on tasoittunut.

Tignesin taajamat edustavat betonibrutalismia pahimmillaan. Betonin ystävien harmiksi rakennuksia on viime vuosina ehostettu visuaalisesti miellyttävämpään suuntaan, eikä uudisrakennuksia enää suunnitella betonisen estetiikan ehdoilla.

Val d’Iseren miljöötä kohennettiin vuoden 2009 alppihiihdon MM-kisoja varten. Nykyään käytännössä kaikkien keskustan rakennusten alaosa on vuolukiveä ja yläosa hirttä. Kulissin takaa saattaa silti löytyä aito 70-lukulainen betoniunelma.

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Rinteitä riittää

Rinteiden luokitukset erityisesti Val d’Iseren puolella ovat paikoin alakanttiin. Yllättävän haastavia kohtia löytyy jopa vihreiksi merkityistä rinteistä. Kokeneempi laskija kokee mäet erittäin mielekkäiksi ja sopivan haastaviksi. Kylään lasketaan punaista tai mustaa rinnettä pitkin, jotka ovat keväisin usein kumpareilla.

Hiihtohissejä on modernisoitu ja modernisoidaan jatkuvasti. Viimeisimmät investoinnit on tehty hiihtokartan vasemmassa laidassa sijaitsevalle Col de l’Iseren alueelle. Perinteisiä hitaita tuoli- tai laahaushissejä on käytössä vain muutama. Kuomullisia tuolihissejä ei ole lainkaan, oletettavasti niiden suuren tuulipinta-alan vuoksi.

Hissijonot olivat maltillisia: aamupäivisin runkohisseillä saattoi joutua odottamaan muutaman minuutin, mutta muuten hisseille pääsi erittäin sujuvasti. Tilanne on toinen ranskalaisten hiihtolomien (viikot 7–9) aikaan, jolloin jonotus on kuulemma tuskastuttavaa.

Hyvin huollettu ja monipuolinen parkki löytyy kummaltakin hiihtoalueelta. Lisäksi alueella on useita boardercross-ratoja, joista saa lisäfiilistä laskupäivään.
Puuteria tarjolla

Olin Val d’Iseressä viisi viikkoa keväällä 2025 sekä neljä viikkoa tammi–helmikuussa ja kolme viikkoa maaliskuussa 2026. Jokaisella viikolla pääsin laskemaan hissipuuteria vähintään yhtenä päivänä.

Dumpin jälkeen helpoimmin saavutettavat spotit lasketaan nopeasti puhki. Pienellä skinnauksella puhtaan lumen laskuseinämiä löytyy kuitenkin vielä useita päiviä lumisateen jälkeenkin. Alueella on hyvä lumitilannetiedotus, ja uhkaavia lumilippoja räjäytellään aktiivisesti. Hoidettujen rinteiden ulkopuolelta löytyy sekä helppoja ja turvallisia laskuja että erittäin jyrkkiä ja kapeita rännejä maastoansoineen. Offareista on tarjolla tietoa sekä painettuna että digitaalisessa muodossa, ja takamaaston ammattioppaita tarjoaa useampi yritys.

Huoneistossa kustannuksia kuriin

Ranskalaiset suosivat huoneistoja, jotta voivat valmistaa ruokansa itse. Val d’Iseren kaupoissa on reippaat ”tunturihinnat”. Noin 45 minuutin bussimatkan päässä sijaitsee viehättävä Bourg-St-Mauricen taajama, joka on enemmän paikallisten asuttama. Siellä hintataso on tuotteesta riippuen noin puolet hiihtokeskuksen hinnoista. Kävin siellä kerran viikossa hakemassa eväslastin.

Huoneistoissa on usein viikon selviytymispaketti, jossa on palasaippua, tiskiaineet käsin- ja konepesuun sekä yksi rulla vessapaperia. Suosittelen ottamaan mukaan vessa- ja talouspaperia, suodatinpaperia sekä tarvittaessa mausteita kokkailua varten.

Pari täkyä

Rinnekartan oikeassa laidassa sijaitsee idyllinen Tignes 1550 Les Bréviérsin kylä. Sillä on pitkä historia ja se poikkeaa idylliltään merkittävästi alueen muista taajamista, jotka on rakennettu pääosin matkailua varten 1960-luvun lopulta lähtien, kun patoallas ja voimalaitos toivat laaksoon kunnollisen tien.

Tignesin puolella sijaitseva Aiguille Percée on tunnettu reikäkallio ja puolipakollinen somekuvien ottopaikka.

Joy (by Raphael Laventure) -taideteoksia löytyy parikin kappaletta piristämässä laskijoiden päivää. Lisäksi useissa paikoissa on kuvausspotteja, joissa kansa tyydyttää somen sisältönälkäänsä.

Shopattavaa riittää

Val d’Iseren katukuvassa aistii vaurauden. Taajamasta löytyy lähes kaikkien tunnettujen arvomerkkien myymälät (mm. Bogner, Fusalp, Moncler, Stöckli). Tarjonta ulottuu myös perinteisempiin merkkeihin, joiden liikkeissä on varsinkin keväällä kiinnostavia poistoalennuksia. Mikäli katumuskaupalle on tarvetta, kello- ja kultaliikkeissä saa helposti kulutettua keskiverto suomalaisen vuosipalkan parilla pienellä paketilla.

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Oheisohjelmaa

Kuuden päivän hissilippuun kuuluu Val d’Iseren Centre Aquasportifin uima-altaiden käyttö kahtena päivänä. Paikassa on myös suomalaisittain mietoja saunoja ja porealtaita, mutta Wellness-alueelle pääsy maksaa 14 euroa. Samassa rakennuksessa on kiipeilyseiniä, kuntosali ja pallopelihalli.

Ravintoloita on runsaasti, joten nälkä tai jano ei pääse yllättämään. Ruoka on pääsääntöisesti maistuvaa tai erittäin hyvää. Maanantaisin Val d’Iseressä on maalaismarkkinat, jolloin paikalliset tuottajat myyvät omia tuotteitaan – grillattua kanaa, patonkeja, juustoja. Valitettavasti mukana on myös kiinalaisten karvahattujen kauppiaita, jotka eivät oikein istu markkinoiden tunnelmaan.

Vuorilaakson perukoille on haastava päästä

Helpoin tapa päästä Val d’Iseren on Youtravelin pakettimatka. Omatoimimatkaajan on helpointa lentää Geneveen, josta matka jatkuu vuokra-autolla tai bussilla. Junalla pääsee Tarantaisen laakson perukalla sijaitsevaan idylliseen Bourg-St-Mauriceen, josta on vielä vajaan tunnin bussimatka perille. Junamatkalle Genevestä tai Pariisista tulee pari vaihtoa, mikä lisää matka-aikaa huomattavasti. Bussilla Genevestä matka kestää liikenteestä riippuen 3,5–6 tuntia, yleensä reilut neljä.

Jouheva ski bussijärjestelmä

Perinteisillä diesel-busseilla on ajokielto Val d´Iseren keskustaan klo 8-20 välisenä aikana. Kielto on ymmärrettävä, sillä varsinkin vaihtopäivän bussiarmeija laittaisi kylän liikenteen tukkoon. Nyt charter-bussit jättävät asiakkaansa Val d´Iseren bussiasemalle, joka sijaitsee La Daillessa, josta on noin kilometri Val d´Isreen.

Linja-autoasemalta matka jatkuu ilmaisella sähkökäyttöisellä ski bussilla, joka kulkee muutaman minuutin välein. Myös Tignesin alueella kulkee ski bussi tihein vuorovälein. Val d’Iseren ja Tignesin keskusten välillä bussi kulkee vain muutaman kerran päivässä.

La Daille on Val d´Iseren laitakylä, joka on laskijalle hyvä paikka majoittua. Kylästä löytyy peruspalvelut ja kuten kirjoitettua, sieltä hyvä bussiyhteys keskustaan. Yhteys toimii aamuvarhaisesta iltamyöhään, eikä reilu kilometrin tallustelukaan liian pitkä matka ole. La Daille on vähän keskemmällä kun Val d´Isere, niin laskijan on siitä jouhempi lähteä mihin suuntaan tahansa. Eikä kylästä laskemaan lähtiessä aamuruuhkat häiritse.

Val d’Isere tarjoaa keskimäärin erinomaiset mahdollisuudet ikimuistoiseen laskureissuun. Siksi se löytyy lähes kaikista listauksista, joissa spekuloidaan maailman parasta hiihtokeskusta. Val d’Iseressa on laskijan ja ihmisen hyvä olla.